PICKS:
Driving on Utah Highway 12
One of the amazing things about this Utah place is that you can go from sandstone canyon to huge dirt dunes, through a lush national forest and come out into white slickrock that stretches for miles and miles. We did exactly that when we drove on Hwy 12 from Capitol Reef through Dixie National Forest and past the Escalante National Monument on our way to Bryce. Is this whole freakin’ state one big scenic byway?
As we expected, the Bryce campgrounds were full when we arrived in the early evening, so we drove about 10 miles west and camped in Red Canyon. There was only one campsite left and we managed to strike a deal with a pair of Dutch bike riders and a Korean couple from California so that we all ended up paying a third of the fee and still getting a share of the site. Aside from having a nice campground (complete with water and quarter eating showers), there are some great bike trails close by. A paved path runs the length of the canyon and we also discovered Thunderhead Mountain trail, which weaves back through the forest and around the red dirt mountains. Not bad, for a second choice campsite.
The entire time we were in Bryce Canyon, I kept finding myself wondering if I had stepped through a porthole into a fantasy kingdom peopled by giant pink, white and orange rock beings (called hoodoos) that were defending their sunset hued world. And because the geology changes on a decade by decade basis (rather than on a scale of eons), the transformations are tangible and very personal. It is unreal, in every sense. The only thing that keeps you tethered to reality are the scattered trees and the other visitors. It’s a spectacular place.
Sunrise Point at Bryce Canyon
A great thing about our van is that if Sean gets up before I do (which happens nearly every day) and feels like moving to a different location (which happens sometimes), he can get dressed, make himself some coffee, drive to wherever he wants to go, and I can stay snugly tucked under the blankets, asleep in the back of the van. Isn’t that marvelous? Well, that’s what happened when Sean went to Sunrise Point very early one morning. He says it was nice, though there was no shortage of fellow photographers or Asian tourists being directed by their wives in endless snapshot taking. I say, sleeping is the best thing to do during sunrise, especially if it means avoiding shutter happy tourists.
North Campground at Bryce Canyon
The best thing about North Campground is that it’s the origin point for a bunch of the trails that run through the canyon. They also have a general store with remarkably cheap prices and wi-fi available (although, shockingly enough, we didn’t use it). A word of warning though, if you want a site, show up and claim it between 9-11am because after that, you may well be S.O.L., my friend. Those national park goers are a wily bunch, and they pounce on the first-come, first-serve campsites like it’s going out of style.
This 8 mile hike is far and above my favorite of the trip thus far. It took us from the rim of the canyon, down through the hoodoos (the spire like rock formations of Bryce), to the canyon floor and back up again. It was a fantastic journey. The hoodoos each have such an individual character that you almost expect them to move, and the colors of the rock would rival the best sunset in the world. Plus with our mid morning start, we only saw a dozen or so hikers along the way.
Bryce Canyon Scenic Overlooks
Even after our 4 hour hike through the canyon, we still wanted to see more, so we drove out to some of the overlooks in the park. The ranger’s suggestion to start at the farthest end of the scenic drive, Rainbow Point, and work your way back was great advice. Rainbow Point gave a good panoramic view of the area, and while worth seeing, it doesn’t give the most intimate experience of the canyon. There were a number of other overlooks along the way and while they each gave a different perspective, we had some definite favorites. I loved Inspiration Point because I got to hike up a steep hill and look down over a small part of the hoodoo filled space. Bryce Point, however, was above and beyond the most breathtaking spot we’ve been to and a spectacular grand finale on the Bryce vista tour. After several chances to peek in, you at last enter the castle’s royal court complete with court jesters, the nobility and the common hoodoos all mingling in a sunset fantasy. As suggested by the ranger, the light is best about 2 hours before sunset before the sun dips behind the walls of the canyon.
I just have to comment on the Sunrise Point adventure had from beneath the covers. That sounds awesome. The problem is that if Abby and I lived in a van, we would never get that experience of being driven around in bed….as neither of us likes to get up. We would obviously miss out on the good campsites too!
Yep. It’s a pretty great situation all around. Sean gets to be his motivated morning self and I don’t have to feel guilty for wanting to sleep. Three cheers for a mobile bed!
I have been to all of these places, but I have to take Abby! Pretty spectacular stuff so let us know when you want to go back and we will meet you. It would be easy if you ended up in Flagstaff……
Sounds great! Dunno about Flagstaff. Cool town, but a little smallish for us… and no dorkbot…
these are some of the most beautiful pics! who knew utah was so breathtaking!
Utah is incredible! If there is a non-scenic part of the state, we haven’t found it yet. Glad to see you’re still reading the blog, Meg! Hope all is well in NYC!