{"id":334,"date":"2009-05-01T15:12:58","date_gmt":"2009-05-01T22:12:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.lastgreatroadtrip.net\/?p=334"},"modified":"2009-05-13T17:43:13","modified_gmt":"2009-05-14T00:43:13","slug":"picks-and-pans-louisiana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.lastgreatroadtrip.net\/?p=334","title":{"rendered":"Picks and Pans – Louisiana"},"content":{"rendered":"

PICKS:<\/strong>
\nLafayette Festival International de Louisiane<\/a><\/p>\n

The lineup at this weekend long Francophile music festival could rival any day at Jazz Fest, but the kicker is that the whole thing is totally free and the crowd can barely be termed as such because it’s relatively sparse compared to what you might expect at such of a quality event. The whole atmosphere is very relaxed, friendly and local. In one night we were able to see a kora player from Senegal, a brass band from Paris, a West African singer and a slammin’ zydeco group. Throw in the cheap drinks and big bowls of red beans and rice with andouille and you have yourselves some very happy road trippers. Thanks to the folks at Main Squeeze<\/a> in Oxford, Mississippi for the tip!<\/div>\n

New Orleans Jazz Fest<\/a><\/p>\n

We couldn’t believe the happy accident of timing when Keith told us our arrival in New Orleans coincided with the first weekend of Jazz Fest and lucky for us we had two Jazz Fest veterans to guide us around. To start off our day, Sean (or should I say Jazz Fest G-spot) bought himself a pink cowboy hat and then we set off to see the classic Mardi Gras Indians. We picnicked during the concert eating fried alligator po’ boys and sipping on rose mint iced tea and then headed to another stage for some Dumpstafunk and Galactica. I ended my day with Erykah Badu while Sean opted for a little bit of Wilco. All in all, a great day…..until the voodoo curse hit Sean at about 3am (more on that later).<\/div>\n

Paris Parker Salon<\/a><\/p>\n

It had been over a year since I had gotten my hair cut and, frankly, I was getting pretty frustrated with having longish hair (as evident in my frequent ponytail stylings). So, while Sean was busy battling his stomach bug, I walked over to Paris Parker salon and got a darn good hair cut (at least I think so, but you can judge for yourself in upcoming photos).<\/div>\n

Magazine Street<\/a><\/p>\n

Luckily, our New Orleans friends and hosts, Keith and Yuki, live within walking distance of a number of interesting neighborhoods, one of these being Magazine Street. I could venture just a few blocks from Keith and Yuki’s house (and the convalescing Sean) and find myself among local restaurants, bars and boutiques, all of which are scattered among the neighborhood houses. It was a great place to escape to while Sean was napping and one of the reasons I would be tempted to spend a year or so living in N’awlins.<\/div>\n

French Quarter<\/p>\n

I don’t think we could have honestly claimed to have visited New Orleans unless we made the requisite visit to the French Quarter. Although Bourbon Street reeks of tourist’s urine and vomit, the other parts of the Quarter are definitely worth an afternoon of wandering around. And, of course, I made two stops at Cafe du Monde<\/a>, once for after dinner beignets and cafe au lait with Yuki and her sister Aki and a second time for an afternoon iced coffee and some people watching with Sean. Sean and I also got to lounge in\u00c2\u00a0 Jackson Square<\/a> for an hour or so one afternoon, which was a perfect way to watch the world of the French Quarter go by.<\/div>\n


\nNinth Ward<\/a><\/p>\n

I had always wondered at the draw that the WTC had for tourists in New York City. Having lived in New Jersey in 2001 and experienced the aftermath of 9\/11 in person, I didn’t really understand why people wanted to see the site of the disaster. However, after touring the Ninth Ward, I think I finally get it. Being in the place where something happens makes you understand it and it’s importance in a way that is impossible even with the visual inundation we are subject to via the media. Seeing the disaster wrought by Katrina and the lack of resources being devoted to rebuilding (or even rubble clearing) gives me some pause to think about the moral character of a society that turns to its poor and broken down and says “Sink or swim. Oh, and best be teaching yo’self how to swim, ’cause we ain’t got no money for yo’ schools”. And then wonder in outrage why those rejected by this “system for some” turn to gangs and drugs.<\/div>\n

Creole Creamery<\/a><\/p>\n

Holy cow, is this some good ice cream! Just blocks from Keith and Yuki’s house, this ice cream shop serves up some more unusual flavors (wildflower honey, pink peppermint pie, saffron pistachio, cayenne lime butter, peach reisling) alongside the classics. I highly recommend the tea and scones flavor, which was like an icy, refreshingly milky black tea with bits of buttery scone in it.<\/div>\n


\nSt. Charles streetcar<\/a><\/p>\n

Aside from walking, the streetcar was the main way I got around New Orleans. It goes along the length of the Crescent City’s crescent and for $1.25 I could lean on the open windowsill, ogle at the historic houses and get where I was going. All in all, thoroughly enjoyable….although not on an entirely reliable schedule. Good thing I wasn’t in a hurry, much like the New Orleans locals…this town moves like it’s Sunday afternoon even on a Tuesday morning.<\/div>\n


\nButcher<\/a><\/p>\n

This little butcher shop\/eatery\/bar was like a fantastic slice of New York transported to the warehouse district of New Orleans…..except we knew it we must have been in the South due to it’s pork-centric offerings (even the Swine list wasn’t exempt…get it swine? Like wine with an s?). We had a crazy good Cuban sandwich made with cochon au lait and their full appetizer and wine list was almost tempting enough for a return visit. Alas, Sean’s overtaxed intestines weren’t up for their duck breast, foie gras or even the cheese.<\/div>\n

Julia Street galleries<\/a><\/p>\n

New Orleans’ Julia Street is jam packed with galleries showing all sorts of contemporary art, from conceptual pieces to sculpture to painting. It was our first joint venture away from Sean’s sick bed and it was totally worth it.<\/div>\n

Settlers of Catan<\/a><\/p>\n

Simply put….best board game EVER! If you ever get a chance to play it, do it, but be warned you will want to play again, and again, and again…..<\/div>\n

PANS:<\/strong>
\nSean’s voodoo curse<\/p>\n

Our first day in New Orleans was fantastic. We spent all day at Jazz Fest and came home to a comfy spot in Keith and Yuki’s living room. Alas, the good life ended there. Sean awoke at 3am on Sunday morning with what can only be called a voodoo curse of a stomach virus. It lasted for a good 5 days of fever, vomiting and diarrhea, which has resulted in Sean’s recurring PTSD-style nightmares of diarrhea related catastrophe. Luckily, we had the good fortune to be staying with the beyond gracious, generous and kind Yuki and Keith, who let us use their home for convalescing. Thanks to their hospitality, Sean is on the mend and we still managed to have a great time in New Orleans.<\/div>\n

Dirty Nuggets<\/p>\n

Yep, you read it correctly. I said Dirty Nuggets. Keith and Yuki took me to my first NBA game while I was in New Orleans and despite my valiant efforts to “Fan Up” and cheer N’awlins style for the Hornets, those dastardly Denver Nuggets beat the hometown favorites soundly. I won’t repeat the score to save the Hornets from the shame, but if you’re curious it was game 4 in the playoff series. Be prepared for carnage should you choose to look up the score.<\/div>\n

Maxey’s RV Park<\/p>\n

Maxey’s RV Park has made me question whether “Clean, Hot Showers” is a brand of showers because the proclamation on Maxey’s sign couldn’t have been an attempt to accurately describe their urine-scented, bug-infested shower pit. Sean spent his last morning of diarrhea (physical, that is, the nightmares continue) fighting off the hundreds-score convention of mosquitoes.<\/div>\n